{"id":897,"date":"2021-12-18T10:28:35","date_gmt":"2021-12-18T10:28:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?p=897"},"modified":"2021-12-18T10:28:36","modified_gmt":"2021-12-18T10:28:36","slug":"bifora-cowboy-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?p=897","title":{"rendered":"Bifora &#8211; Cowboy Style"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"970\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/cowboy-tracciatoweb-1024x970.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-899 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/cowboy-tracciatoweb-1024x970.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/cowboy-tracciatoweb-300x284.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/cowboy-tracciatoweb-768x728.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/cowboy-tracciatoweb.jpg 1200w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/970;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L\u2019ultimo fix \u00e8 ormai 8 metri sotto, la fessura che sembrava esserci non c\u2019\u00e8 e @annalisaclimber , anzich\u00e9 urlarmi di stare attento o di cercare di tornare indietro, mi incita e basta. Questo \u00e8 il \u201cCowboy style\u201d (con)diviso per due. Bella storia, soprattutto perch\u00e9 due metri dopo trovo un buon verticale da cui piazzare un fix con il sistema \u201cCowboy drill\u201d: due centimetri di buco, lasciare il trapano appeso nel buco e riposare la mano, altri due centimetri e cos\u00ec via, perch\u00e9 il \u201cCowboy style\u201d non contempla l\u2019uso dei cliff cui appendersi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-FA-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-900 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-FA-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-FA-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-FA-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-FA.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"> In questo modo abbiamo finito e liberato la nostra nuova via sulla Cima Bifora in Presanella, sette tiri di cui solo l\u2019ultimo attende la prima libera, perch\u00e9 c\u2019\u00e8 stato solo il tempo di liberarlo dall\u2019erba umida che intasava la splendida monofessura che lo solca. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"901\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=901\" class=\"wp-image-901 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L1-7b.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Quel tiro \u00e8 stato liberato dai primi ripetitori , che lo hanno slichenato e valutato 7b. Il resto richiede un po\u2019 di livello e buon occhio per individuare il prossimo fix. Grazie ai gestori del Rifugio Segantini per aver reso possibile la nostra permanenza assecondando i nostri arrivi notturni e i ritorni a cucina chiusa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"902\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=902\" class=\"wp-image-902 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L65-6b.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The last fix is now 8 meters below, the crack that seemed to be there is not and @annalisaclimber, instead of shouting to be careful or try to get back, just incites me. This is the \u201cCowboy style\u201d divided by two. Beautiful story, especially because two meters later I find a good vertical from which to place a fix with the system \u201cCowboy drill\u201d: two centimeters of hole, leave the drill hanging in the hole and rest the hand, two centimeters and so on, because the \u201cCowboy style\u201d does not contemplate the use of cliffs to hang on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L4-6c-close-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-903 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L4-6c-close-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L4-6c-close-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L4-6c-close-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/Annalisa-Caggiati-L4-6c-close.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"> In this way we have finished and freed our new route on the Cima Bifora in Presanella, seven pitches of which only the last one awaits the FA, because there was only time to free it from the damp grass that clogged the splendid mono crack that crosses it. That pitch remains open project but it\u2019s not risky, it\u2019s just hard. The rest requires a bit of level and good eye for scouting the next fix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-904 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/AGD-L1-7b.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>L\u2019ultimo fix \u00e8 ormai 8 metri sotto, la fessura che sembrava esserci non c\u2019\u00e8 e @annalisaclimber , anzich\u00e9 urlarmi di stare attento o di cercare di tornare indietro, mi incita e basta. Questo \u00e8 il \u201cCowboy style\u201d (con)diviso per due. Bella storia, soprattutto perch\u00e9 due metri dopo trovo un buon verticale da cui piazzare un [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":898,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"tags":[],"class_list":["post-897","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/897","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=897"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/897\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/898"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=897"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=897"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}