{"id":885,"date":"2021-12-18T10:13:11","date_gmt":"2021-12-18T10:13:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?page_id=885"},"modified":"2021-12-18T10:13:13","modified_gmt":"2021-12-18T10:13:13","slug":"sugarloaf-mama-dodori","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?page_id=885","title":{"rendered":"Sugarloaf &#8211; Mama Dodori"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"679\" height=\"385\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21314301_714492772070264_354763105767369910_n.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-887 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21314301_714492772070264_354763105767369910_n.jpg 679w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21314301_714492772070264_354763105767369910_n-300x170.jpg 300w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 679px) 100vw, 679px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 679px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 679\/385;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cMama Dodori\u201d, 300 metri di via nuova sullo Sugarloaf in Namibia. La prima met\u00e1 \u00e8 impegnativa e molto ingaggiata (Fix a 20mt di distanza sul 6a di aderenza), il resto \u00e8 pi\u00f9 rilassante; la lunghezza dei primi due tiri (70 metri ciascuno) \u00e8 un po\u2019 anomala e, anche se sull\u2019appoggiato, un po\u2019 di tiraggio c\u2019\u00e8 verso la fine. \u00a0Tensione e polpacci che fumano\u2026 semplicemente indimenticabile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"870\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368793_714492835403591_2703150885653971205_o-1024x870.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-888 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368793_714492835403591_2703150885653971205_o-1024x870.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368793_714492835403591_2703150885653971205_o-300x255.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368793_714492835403591_2703150885653971205_o-768x653.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368793_714492835403591_2703150885653971205_o.jpg 1271w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/870;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>La via \u00e8 stata realizzata in due giorni, perch\u00e8 il primo giorno, malgrado fossimo nel pieno dell\u2019inverno namibiano, la roccia bolliva e con lei le scarpette: un tiro solo e poi via, a rifugiarci all\u2019ombra; \u00e8 stata poi completata qualche giorno, dopo attaccando al pomeriggio e scendendo con le frontali, ma con temperature decisamente pi\u00f9 accettabili. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21369003_714492882070253_6568677860580032421_o.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-889 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21369003_714492882070253_6568677860580032421_o.jpg 720w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21369003_714492882070253_6568677860580032421_o-225x300.jpg 225w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 720px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 720\/960;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Non c\u2019\u00e8 avvicinamento, la via parte a due metri dalla macchina e la base della parete \u00e8 evidente a sinistra dello Spitzkoppe. Servono tre rinvii, friend e dadi inutili, due corde da 70 obbligatorie; soste attrezzate a fix e anello per la calata. Il nome della via viene dalla nostra \u201ccanzone di famiglia\u201d, un vecchio non-successo di Dori Ghezzi e De Andr\u00e8.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21457470_714492782070263_4201773683964151841_o.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"890\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=890\" class=\"wp-image-890 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21457470_714492782070263_4201773683964151841_o.jpg 720w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21457470_714492782070263_4201773683964151841_o-225x300.jpg 225w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 720px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 720\/960;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"891\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=891\" class=\"wp-image-891 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368907_714492798736928_3896147591410578797_o.jpg 1440w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368919_714492888736919_2049089017058962103_o-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"892\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=892\" class=\"wp-image-892 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368919_714492888736919_2049089017058962103_o-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368919_714492888736919_2049089017058962103_o-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368919_714492888736919_2049089017058962103_o-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/21368919_714492888736919_2049089017058962103_o.jpg 1440w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"893\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/?attachment_id=893\" class=\"wp-image-893 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/P1050285.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/DSC00576-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-894 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/DSC00576-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/DSC00576-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/DSC00576-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/12\/DSC00576.jpg 1280w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/768;\" \/><figcaption>Un&#8217;altro monotiro trad nuovo aperto a Koiimasis, Namibia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cMama Dodori\u201d, 300 metri di via nuova sullo Sugarloaf in Namibia. La prima met\u00e1 \u00e8 impegnativa e molto ingaggiata (Fix a 20mt di distanza sul 6a di aderenza), il resto \u00e8 pi\u00f9 rilassante; la lunghezza dei primi due tiri (70 metri ciascuno) \u00e8 un po\u2019 anomala e, anche se sull\u2019appoggiato, un po\u2019 di tiraggio c\u2019\u00e8 [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":886,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-885","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/885","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=885"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/885\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/886"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gennaridaneri.it\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=885"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}